Journalists’ diary: From Martha to the virtues of crisps and wine to vegetables, day 1 was a welcome return

Martha Stewart and Thomas Joseph share a laugh with the audience during Stewart’s seminar at the 2021 Food & Wine Classic in Aspen on Friday, September 10, 2021 (Kelsey Brunner / The Aspen Times)

Marthe, Marthe, Marthe

Hail to all the queen! Martha Stewart celebrated the upcoming publication of her 99th book – “Martha Stewart’s Fruit Desserts: 100+ Delicious Ways to Savor the Best of Every Season: A Baking Book,” which is due out in October – by showing three recipes to a packed audience. the Paepcke Parc tent seminar on Friday mornings.

Pulling on a pink sweater embroidered with a whimsical “Knives on the Right” reminder, the household legend proved she still had the golden touch at 80.

Stewart did a quick job of assembling a rustic apple crostada with a cheddar cheese crust; cake with red grapes and whipped cream; and “Ruffled Pumpkin Milk Pie,” while sharing cooking stories with Snoop Dogg and his 10-year-old granddaughter, Jude, infused with his signature dry spirit. (It turns out that the butter hydrates dry hands up here aloft in the blink of an eye – “Don’t touch my padding” afterwards, she joked.)



The highlight of Stewart’s show was the finished pie: buttery phyllo dough coated in silky, sweet pumpkin cream as a smart twist on Thanksgiving tradition? This is a good thing.

– Amanda Rae, Food Matters Columnist, Aspen Times Weekly



Marcus Samuelsson, whose new restaurant will have only one meat dish, said it better than most Fridays during his Greens and Grains session at Food & Wine Classic when he said that foods made from of plants weren’t supposed to taste like chicken, but rather delicious.
Sean Beckwith / The Aspen Times

No meat, no problem

I feel like the gut reaction of people to plant-based foods is more based on the assumption that it is a statement about meat.

Marcus Samuelsson, whose new restaurant will have only one meat dish, expressed it better than most Fridays when he said plant-based foods weren’t supposed to taste like chicken. , but were supposed to taste delicious.

The teff gnocchi he made with lobster mushrooms, broccoli stem pesto and homemade cheese made you forget the dish had no protein. Excited as always to share his native Ethiopian ingredients, teff was the cereal part of his Greens and Grains seminar. The crowd may have been muted (it’s not your fault, Marcus, asking people who have been drinking and eating in the sun to gather in a cool tent is difficult, if not impossible), but the excitement sparked by the burgeoning meatless movement could be felt in Samuelsson’s Q&A after the cooking demo.

It’s hard not to want to explore the possibilities of avoiding meat when you are aware of Samuelsson’s contagious energy for vegan food and its potential effect on gastronomy, even for an hour.

And I’m not talking about the Impossible Whopper. The lens through which we view vegetarian dishes must be refocused to make the ingredients sing in their best light, without twisting them to taste like KFC.

– Sean Beckwith, The Aspen Times

Food & Wine Editor-in-Chief Ray Isle discusses wine at his Morning Seminar at Classic in Aspen on Friday, September 10, 2021 (Kelsey Brunner / The Aspen Times)

Become a little chippy

Beer has beer nuts, wine has cheese, but what about a crispy snack? This is where Wine Chips (winechips.com) comes in with hearty trellis-cut crisps with creative flavors, meant to accompany wines. Considering the 10 am for the seminar, I can point it out, they are even a winning combination for breakfast. We sampled six different crisps designed especially for this event hosted by Ray Isle, executive editor of Food & Wine magazine, and Jonathan Pullis, master sommelier. Oh, and with eight wines.

My favorite pairing was the first, Bollingers with Master Reserve Sea Salt Crisps. And, according to Isles, “fries and champagne are one of the best pairings on the planet,” which makes sense.

It also follows with Wine Chips. Pullis, company partner and wine manager for 7908 in Aspen, says their best pairing is champagne with one of their three varieties of savory crisps.

While it may seem counterintuitive, we’ve learned that the acidity and salinity of crisps actually reduce the acidity in wines, allowing you to get more fruit undertones in your wine.

Our process was to sip the wine, taste a paired crisps, and then taste the wine again. Chardonnay isn’t usually my first choice, but when paired with the chef’s baked chips it was sublime. To prove Isle’s arguments that every palate is unique and that good food can improve the taste of wine. The wine itself, a 2019 Benovia Russian River Chardonnay, may also have something to do with it.

To recreate this experience, get yourself some wine chips and three bottles of wine – yes, the chips have general pairing recommendations – grab a few friends and throw your own relaxed tasting party.

– Allison Pattillo, The Aspen Times

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